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Now we go about placing stone on the outside of the well rings.dozerSep 28, 2011
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By using the wrong material to finish of the well, large pockets of air and water form - which put pressure on the sides of the well. Here is the well after the blocks were dug out. The footing will have the rebar supports at 2.5 meter intervals. dozerSep 28, 2011
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Filtration: The stainless steel filtration canisters are bolted to a cement base. (09-Jul-04)dozerSep 28, 2011
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Valve: This electric value is mounted on the top of the water tank. The electric wire is run through the yellow pvc conduit. (06-Jul-04)

There is an electric water valve used here (instead of a manual ball float one), which allows the water level to be set. This is one feature I really like, in that with the normal floater valve the pump must turn on after almost every use. With this type of valve the pump doesn't need to be used that often, which allows the water to settle and is easier on the pump it
dozerSep 28, 2011
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Water Tank: Another shot of the water tank. (02-Jul-04)

Water tanks are good for a number of reasons. They allow the water to be accumulated and stored so that in periods of high usage you don't run out. The water will also have a chance to sit and any impurities can settle out prior to use.
dozerSep 28, 2011
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After the well was in operation for a while, we started having problems with 'dirty' water. Here the original digger uses a pump to pump out the water at the bottom of the well. (13-Jun-04)dozerSep 28, 2011
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The well rings which are inserted in the finished well come in various diameters, the ones used here are 1.2 meters. dozerSep 28, 2011
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5 Minutes Saved, the Story of DIRTY WATER!: The well was dug in February, and although I don't have any pictures it was hand dug by an experienced well digger. This shot shows a well digger descending into a hand dug well. The well in our case is about 7 meters deep and uses 23 rings. (09-Apr-04)dozerSep 28, 2011
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